After we have finished the painting, we have to varnish it. And do you use the provided decals, paint your own designs, or keep it clean? Hope this helps. Always wear soft clean shoes, you don't want to mark the timber before you varnish it. Put a flat varnish on top of that and you should be OK. Hope it helps, have a nice day. Varnish is a final layer applied to a painting after it is finished and completely dry. Peter M the 1/72 scale WWII Luftflotte guy. Before applying any decals, make sure to wash and clean the surface where you plan on placing the decal. I intend applying a final spray coat of gloss either way. Using the tweezers, pick up the decal and put it on the surface of the water – it may curl or sink, but this is fine. A matt or flat paint finish may be the best look for your model, but reduces the points of contact for the decal and can leave small pockets of air beneath the decal. During the curing process, the paint will continue to change (shrink and expand and even change chemically) and shed solvents and thinners. (Includes camoflage) Dip. With a few materials and a … The model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with another coat of appropriate varnish. Should I decal first and then finish the job with the semi-gloss varnish after decaling or simply not bother with the setting solutions? This adds realism in my eyes. In most instances, this will result in air bubbles popping up. A trick the model railroad/plastic kit folks use may also help: spray the area where the decal will go with clear gloss first, then apply the decal and finish with dullcote (as appropriate.) Try to put future on the whole top wing and see if it seeps under the decals. Once you are happy that the decal is correctly positioned, carefully soak up any excess water with paper towel and leave the decal to fully dry. First layer of gloss clear coat provides a better surface for your decals and prevent silvering. Any thoughts on how successful this would be. It's still a very thin membrane that scratches off easier than paint on an unprimed model. 10. My question is, should I install the new decal before paint protection is done or afterwards. Repeat the above steps for each new decal. Free Member. All that microsol/set do is soften/reharden the decal film, allowing for better shaping of it over non-flat surfaces. Upon immersion with water, the decal literally slides off the backing paper, allowing you to apply it to the surface of your scale model with relative ease. Each of these has a slightly different application process, as detailed below. 4. Using a cooler temperature water such as room temperature or lukewarm water is ideal for a better outcome. Gloss varnish is good for applying decals and for masking (tape, frisket, or liquid mask) because the smooth surface doesn't trap air and allows masks to peel off easily. Patients with a medical history of allergies should be individually assessed before treatment to reduce the risk of fluoride varnish side effects. It’s used on paintings that are not going to be framed under glass to protect them from dirt, dust, and pollution in the environment. This is how the painting looked before varnishing and after it was varnished. Any tips or suggestions are welcome. chopnhack. The idea is that the decal will stick much better to a smooth (glossy) surface than a matte one. Both. normally, you apply varnish as one of the last things you do when making a model. It’s the final clear coat that seals the decals and makes them appear like natural paint. Certainly after applying the decals, so that they have the same sort of finish (matt, satin, gloss or whatever) as the rest of the model. Now you can apply … This type of decal is generally printed onto a vinyl sheet that has a backing. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better. And for good reason. Paint. Cut the first decal from the sheet. 3 years ago. I ask this because apparently Tamiya panel liner and other very thin solutions have the possibility to slip under decals, creating air pockets. What you can consider is this: Assuming that the decal is not that expensive (I don’t know if they are or not) you can maybe order two. At this point you can seal the model aircraft kit with either a flat, semi-gloss or glossy varnish prior to weathering. Testors Dulcoat is the can of choice, but Krylon Krystal Kleer would work too. Decals stick better to glossy paint than flat, so if you don’t paint with glossy paint, apply a bit of acrylic gloss medium or Future Floor Polish (which is actually a clear gloss acrylic, not a wax), let that dry, and then apply the decal … Hello! Applying a varnish, gloss or otherwise, before adding decals doesn't make a difference. 2. share. Below is an overview of the decal process, so give it a read and get your models looking as incredible as possible! When you add decals to your motorcycle or other vehicle as décor, you will want to add a clear coat over the top of the decal. This will prevent the varnish over the decal from being raised. Concentrate on varnishing one or two floorboards at a time working along their length, avoid overlapping onto adjacent floorboard. Most modellers will varnish the entire model because this is not only needed for decal application, but also makes it easier to apply filters and washes to the model. If I were "doing it right", I would put them on before the weathering. Watch my video to see this process! When you add decals to your motorcycle or other vehicle as décor, you will want to add a clear coat over the top of the decal. Christmas is a season of giving, of finding that perfect gift for your friends and family. Advertisement . Two useful ones are made by Microscale: these are Microset and Microsol. If you find that you have an air bubble that will not go, use a fine pin, needle, or the tip of a sharp knife blade to carefully “prick” the bubble, then press the decal down firmly so that any trapped air escapes and sets the area in place. Make sure this varnish layer is completely dry before you follow the below decal application steps. But, adding a varnish on a small model at this point could also obscure surface detail. As always, model making is as much about follow instructions as it is about following your own creativity. It is also beneficial to apply liquid decal film if you decals have been sitting for more than 2 years after receiving. Use a foam brush. Best Christmas Gift Ideas for Craft Lovers Varnish transfer decals were developed in Europe along with the specialized paper required to produce these high quality decals. 3) There are special products to help make the decals go onto the surface better. If the paint is 'sealed' by a graphic before this can happen, undesired results can occur. Also, make sure the surface area is completely dry before applying the decal. This article will provide general advice about the order to apply the various layers of paint and other finishing layers that are commonly used. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out! This is how the painting looked before varnishing and after it was varnished. - then after I remove the tape from the edge of the headstock, sand the edge flush and bring my Tru-oil finish up to the edge that I have created. As for washing and waxing your car post decal application, again, there is nothing in the wax that “attacks” the acrylic adhesive or the vinyl sticker material, so the wax probably simply adds a bit of protection to both the car’s paint and the decal. Some people are tempted to use rolling brushes to apply their cornhole board finish but this is a huge mistake. Oil Painting Before and After Varnishing After we have finished the painting, we have to varnish it. report. save. You can use the brush to position it correctly. I always apply a coat of gloss before I decal, and when the decals are dry [usually I let them set overnite] I apply a coat of Gloscote over them to seal them, then after that dries, {4 hrs or so] I put a final coat of either flat or gloss on as a finish cote, this method has worked extremely well for me for 25+ years. As you remember, it is not advisable to varnish the painting till it’s completely dry, which is about 18-24 months, depending on the thickness of the paint. Let it dry overnight. Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. To start the process, wipe the entire area where you will be applying the varnish -- including over the sticker -- with a damp cloth. There are two different types of self-adhesive decals, the ‘wet’ type and ‘sticker’ type. Hope this helps. Examine the finish beneath, looking for shine. Start off by carefully selecting the decal that you are going to place onto your model. You honestly won't see the difference. Before installing the decals, spray a gloss varnish protects the paint surface and allow a better grip of the decals. If you plan on multiple layers I'd maybe go for spray rather than brush. The painting of a glossy finish such as used on automotive models follows a quite different path. It applies to models that have a realistic non-gloss finish including military vehicles, aircraft, ships and some science fiction subjects. Use the paint brush to guide the decal off the backing paper and onto the decal solution you just applied on the model. The old kodak pictures, glossy finish had no ill affect. 5. Remember that your finish is not paint and so you do not want to shake it. Removing decal too soon: to avoid this, test your decal before removing it from the water. Detailers polish and seal paint the day theyre painted. For any tight curves or areas that the decal needs to conform to that is not flat, you can apply a little heat using a hairdryer set to low (so as not to distort or melt the decal or model part). Once the decal is set, let the whole thing cure for a day or two. If you are more of a traditionalist, and an array of decals is provided with your model kit, chances are you’ll use them. 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